Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Republika 550 - After four years they've gotten run out


Several weeks ago I wrote an article about Republika 550, an abandoned house that had been taken over by a cooperative of artists and used to over a whole bunch of art and performance related workshops. Check out the orginal article here.

Well today I saw in a couple of papers that the house had been "retaken," ie raided by police and the cooperative that has been using it, Akí, booted out. It's too bad but to me not that surprising. There was a lot of good that was being done there. There were a whole lot of activities going on and all for free. From clowns, painting, theater, urban graffiti to dance and more. For a moment, after all the legal steps were taken to kick the group out, there was some hope that maybe there would be some sort of arrangement. But it seemed at best a long shot. A stuttering bureaucratic state agency in charge of administrating this state owned, but abandoned houses; and a revolutionary/anarchist blend of artist activists who denounced regularly "the system" all coming together didn't seem too realistic.

The house its self needs a lot of work, and although Akí found a lot of creative ways to use the space, as well as cleaned up a decent amount of trash and done some redecorating, a much larger restoration effort is needed for that place. It's a beautiful house, but has been sitting there for too long without much upkeep. I wonder if had they been a bit more active in not just using it but improving it, things might be different.

But in any case I hope some of the creative energy invested into the place over the last four years will convince whoever is in charge of it now that a cultural center open to the public is the way to go forward.

We'll see.

Wednesday, July 08, 2009

Revolver Night tonight in Centro Arte Alameda


Tonight is the one year anniversary and "official" launch of Revista Revolver, an online mag that covers music & culture here in Santiago (and Chile in general). It starts at 9.30pm at the Centro Arte Alameda. I'll be there at the door and pouring some wine (while it lasts). Then we got a couple live bands and a DJ. Come check it out, the CAA is a pretty cool place, has a bar upstairs and is only a block or so from Metro Baquedano.

Monday, July 06, 2009

4th of July at Santiago Radio



In search of a more festive 4th of July atmosphere than Ñuñoa on a dreary saturday I headed to Santiago Radio's new studio, located in Barrio Suecia on Bucacrest 118. I visited Nick aka Nico Jah, and Jimmy Jam, probably Santiago's only english language reggae DJs, while they played some music over the internet broadcast.

The new studio is a huge step up from their garage styled operation in the back yard of Steve Anderson's Santiago Times in Bellavista. DirecTV is even providing sponsorship (big flat screen) in order to reach more gringos with a "English Spoken here" campaign. The place still is in the works, but should be open around August 1st. Check out their link above.

The new studio will also serve as a Café with a small setup of tables and couches for snacks and conversationl.




Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Back to the Basketball

Today I played basketball for the first time in about 15 months. The last time I fell badly and dislocated my ankle from my leg. It was ugly, painful and put me in crutches for a month, physical therapy for weeks and off the court, bike, trails, even the sidewalk! But I've recoved. There is of course a need to be careful. I can't go for every rebound like Dennis Rodman used to do. But I can once again play. Feels great.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Looking Down on the City

Photo by Kyle Weaver

It's been about a month and a half since I made it up to the top of San Ramon with a great group of guys. We ended up being eight, and managed to start the first day, about a six hour hike, pretty late around 4pm. The darkness turned it into an 8 hour climb this night. The end of the hike wasn't exactly pleasent. I struggled on each step up and the darkness only played more tricks on my tired mind and body. But on above me were the Andes, lit up by a lightening storm ever so and then. And the view over the valley as I passed the last bit of rock obstacles near the top shortly before midnight was grandiose. 6 million people and all their lights, all over a kilometer below me.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Chile vs Bolivia photo

As I mentioned on my last post we went to the Chile - Bolivia game last week. Chile won squarely 4-0. Plenty of goals to celebrate. Another win and another step towards the World Cup in South Africa next year. It's been fun to watch them play and this game was no exception.


Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Vamos Chile

The Chilean soccer team hosts Bolivia today and I've got tickets. Chile has played exceptionally well the last few games and is looking very good to qualify for the world cup. They even beat the top ranked team in South America, Paraguay, last Saturday. Should be a good game. VAMOS CHILE!

Tuesday, June 09, 2009

Getting back to the bike

Last weekend I made it out to Huinganal, an area in La Dehesa witha a great set of mountain bike trails. It had been a while since the last time I'd been out there, and I had the same reaction that I did the last time I went overa year ago: Why do I not come out here more often?

Chile's hills, cerros and mountains are well suited the adventerous biker. The sport seems to be gaining a lot of momentum. Huinganal for one was packed, and this last summer saw the opening of the first downhill bike park near Santiago in La parva, one of the ski resorts located on the edge of the Andes.

The photos below are from the 2009 Panamerican Mountain Bike Championship, which were held in March up at La parva. These guys are fearless. There were riders from all over the Americas. (check out the article I wrote about it in Revista Revolver.
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Thursday, June 04, 2009

The travel blog dilemma: what’s the next step?

Today I should really start with that line but it would just be too obvious. My blogging suffers as a second tier activity in my life. No matter what it is that I seem to be doing with my day, the blogging never will get to be first in line. Even when I’m working in something that appears similar the blog gets less priority. In fact the more similarity my day tasks are, for example writing short articles for BNamericas nearly killed this blog, the less willing I am to focus on updating when the day’s work comes to a close.

There is another dilemma at the heart of all this. Why keep the blog? When I first started this blog back in November 2004 it was an unapologetic travel blog. Look at those stray dogs! The fresh fruit is cheap! The Plaza de Armas has a cathedral, etc, etc.

But as time goes by the day to day life in Chile appears less noteworthy. It’s a natural process of growing more comfortable with my surroundings. It’s a good thing, but it means that some of the things, or many I should say, that were a source of inspiration upon my arrival today are just another part of the backdrop.

So what’s next? I don’t know the answer to that one. I follow some other expat themed blogs here. There are several I like, others I don’t care much for. It’s too easy to fall into the trap of keeping a blog that serves as a sounding board for complaints and gripes. For me it has to have something more than just comments on the slow service, something else that appeals to the positive side of life, although the negative will always be there as well.

So, if after all this delay, you, dear reader, are still coming back here, I hope to promise you some things like:

Links to articles I’m writing on Revolver. These articles have a life/cultural/arts focus. Much different than my work at Yankee Group writing market research reports or my breaking news stories at BNamericas. They are definitely a more engaging article to write, although I still do like to talk about mobile handsets.

Photos, photos. I love to take photos. There are many that haven’t really seen the light of day and this is a good place to share them.

What else? I think that’s what is a bit unclear. Exactly what direction to take this blog in its post-travel era….

Monday, March 02, 2009

Sleeping dogs


Street dogs rarely have it quite this good.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Santiago Places: Puerto Fuy

So last night I went out with family for a nice dinner..we made it to Puerto Fuy, an upscale restaurant on Nueva Costanera that specializes in a sort of seafood inspired fusion. It's not exactly cheap, (prices per plate range from 11,000-15,000), but unlike some other restaurants in its price range it delivers on both quality and service, in fact I would say it does more than just deliver, it excels.

A good place for an out of the ordinary night out for a bite. And the host and waiter pay stations have cool mini tablet PCs with touchscreens.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

La Ciudad de Fotografos

Two weekends ago I made it to the outdoor documental film festival held in front of the museum of contemporary art in the barrio Bellas Artes. The documentaries were a collection of some historic reels -an interview with both Fidel Castro and Salavador Allende- and more contemporary titles as well.

The night finished with La Ciudad de Fotografos, a documentary by Sebastian Moreno about a group of photographers that documented public protests under the military regime. The film is told through the eyes of Moreno, whose whole recollection of the military government is based largely in the photographs taken by his father, one of photographers featured in the film.

These weren’t the foreign journalists working with Reuters or the AP, but rather Chileans who felt these events had to be captured on film and formed their own independent group to do so.

The film combined interviews with several of the photographers, the actual photos they had taken at the time and video that had been shot of them taking the photos during the protests.This was dangerous work, the military didn’t want these photos to get out. They had little options for publishing them due to government censorship. at times they would just hang them from their neck and walk through the center to get people’s attention. They were exposed to danger and the risk of detention at a time when people were going missing and being tortured.

While the documentary is about the photographers, it is also about those times that they lived and all the nuances of covering these public protests. It is also a tribute to how powerful photography is in shaping people’s perceptions. In one scene they show a magazine that is to be published, but all of their photos have been censured, every single one.

I highly recommend the film (not sure where you can find it though sorry, but the trailer can be watched here) to anyone who is a fan of photographer or interested in Chile's recent history.

Monday, February 23, 2009

Magic cheeses, Craigslist and the easy way out

As a result Craigslist and several other websites aimed at freelancers have been a frequent destination for my web browsing. If you have spent anytime on Craigslist at all you know that there are quite a few of these posts that promise some high paying figure “working from home” or as a “distributor” of some strange sports gel.

It would be quite nice to just rake in the cash by clicking on web ads or surfing the internet. It would be the easy way out, but I do have to admit, it would also be insanely boring.

The urge to believe that these things might work (and who knows, maybe they do?) seems to be some sort of primordial belief. It goes hand in hand with hope and desperation. Looking for something new, something bigger that will come and lift you out of your hopeless (sic) situation.

In Chile this sensation seems strong. While most Chileans are spared the desperate poverty of some of their neighbors, Chilean slums are much nicer than across the border in Peru or Bolivia, but still there is a large mass of people barely scraping by that haven’t got the things or financial freedom afforded to even the lower middle class in the US.

As a result there are always stories arising in the evening news about the most recent scams. Recently there was a group that called their victims pretending to be a TV executive and told their victims if they brought more cash with them to the studio than other unknown contestants they would win a free house or something. The victim then arrives and is greeted by a nicely dressed individual, who takes their cash and walks off. Middle aged woman seemed particularly susceptible to this tactic.

But there is no scam that seems to have attracted as much attention, both before it was revealed and in the aftermath, as the case of the magic cheeses.

Another characteristic of Chile is that foreign sounding names or companies seem to gain an instant credibility. So when French born “Madame Gil” showed up as a representative of a company called Fermex Chile, people listened.

She had a niche market at her fingertips and was generous enough to cross the world in order to find some “investors.” Starting with a US$ 500 investment, her Chilean partners would manufacture in their home a sort of cheese that could then be used to make cosmetics. It was a market sure to grow and only took 10 days to produce.

The investors, or as we should call them, victims, lined up and bought her package, started making the cheeses and delivering them to Fermex. At first some received a return on their investment, thus intensifying the buzz around the Quesos mágicos.

The buzz grew to an obsession in some places. An entire town in the south of Chile, Coltauco, was almost completely involved. As the word on the street grew, people sold their possessions, even their houses to invest more in this supposedly booming industry. In total Chilean authorities estimate Madame Gil pocketed some US$ 27.8 million through the magic cheese scam.

Then one day she was gone. A continuing stream of TV documentaries and interviews in the paper followed.

Eventually she was caught and is on trial in France. Authorities there have rejected calls to extradite her to Chile. Her victims have organized and hired lawyers, and a judge from France even came to visit some of them. However the investigation moves at a snail’s pace and the chances of her victims recovering their cash seems slight at best.

I realize, maybe it is a stretch to compare the “get paid for doing almost nothing ads” on Craigslist to a magic cheese scam, but when I read pages like this, I can’t help but think of Madame Gil.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Dusting off the blog

It's been another long and unannouced break from the blog. The last entry was in November. Since then life has been full and I just haven't squeezed the blogging as I should. I should at least put a photo up everyonce in a while.

But at least I've made it to sit down today. It's a new year and its summer...will have to keep this better updated....

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Karate Kid

I ran into a group practicing various forms of martial arts over the weekend. The guy in the back shouted the commands and the rest all jumped.

Monday, November 17, 2008

A Place for a Cat

Taking a rest from the sun near Quinta Normal

Friday, November 14, 2008

The Chilean small business

I’ve long been intrigued by the quantity of small businesses in Chile. This little shops that you past on the bus ride to where ever it is you are going, some of them packed, others always empty. Most you’ll never walk into but in Santiago I’m always aware of their existence.


This fascination has prompted me to walk into them with my camera and explore them visually. Most people are pretty open to the lens, while others or not. Some have suspected me of being some sort of salesman, others simply just don’t care and a few sit and talk to me about their lives.


In any case I haven’t gotten out as much as I would like. I’ve posted two other entries (here and here) on a couple of the places I’ve been to in recent weeks.



















Wednesday, November 12, 2008

A personal post to the world….a wedding in Chile

Last Friday I had the civil wedding (i.e the legal paperwork) with my Chilean girlfriend of nearly four years. When I landed in Chile I knew on October 12, 2004 I knew it would be the trip of the lifetime, but I didn’t know why. At the time I didn’t know how long I would stay. It was an emotional moment and I have to say I feel a bit more Chilean after living it. It was a small event and afterwards we drank too much wine and champagne.

All I know is that I’m very lucky to found the love that I have in this world.





































I’ve gotten to know her family quite well and feel completely welcome in their company.




















I tried to get my mother involved through a video chat. We chat frequently online and rarely lose the signal. But this day it refused to work. Turns out that shortly before my father passed away of cancer the discussion arose as to whether he could participate in the wedding ceremony (coming later this month) via video chat. He was against it, thought it too intrusive. His presence was strong that day, he was with us I could just feel it.

Monday, November 10, 2008

Chilean researchers turn to Mapuche medicinal plant to fight brain cancer

Last Thursday Chilean researchers annouced they have isolated anti-carcinogenic compounds in a indigenous medicinal plant used traditional to treat an upset stomach that they believe can be used to eventual fight brain cancer in humans.

Led by Dr. Rolando Martinez of the Universidad Austral in Valdivia along with researchers from the Universidad Andres Bello and doctors from the Barros Luco Hospital, the project will move into an advance stage treating lab animals with brain cancer and then humans.

Martinez and his team focused on isolating anti- carcinogenic chemicals in the Leptocarpha rivularis, used by the Mapuche to treat an upset stomach, to attack cancer cells. Research using the plant has shown the natural derivatives force proteins from the cancerous cells to start a process that corrects the infected cell’s DNA. Moreover tests have shown the compound has no impact on healthy cells.

The first two phases of the project, conducted over the last twenty years, focused first on creating brain cancer among lab rats and then treating it with the compound. The second phase then focused on liver cancer among terminally ill volunteers. The third phase will focus on Chilean patients with brain cancer.

Researchers, however, expect more complications from the third phase due to the limited amount of people with brain cancer in Chile willing to participate in such a study.

Leptocarpha rivularis is a plant known in Chile as “palo negro”, stands at a meter and a half and is found in the south of Chile. The plant has been used for generations by the Mapuche people, one of Chile’s last surviving indigenous groups.

Thursday, November 06, 2008

Riding a bike in Santiago, Chile

So as my work situation hit a period of change recently I've had the opportunity to work in new areas, one of them in tourism. Specifically I'm giving bike tours of Santiago with La Bicicleta Verde.

The two tours I'm currently working on focus on La Chimba, the area north of the Mapocho, i.e. La Vega, Patronato, etc. The other one takes you through a bit of providencia, parque Bustamante, Plaza Italia, Lastarria, Santa Lucia, etc. Its a very interesting thing to be doing because it forces you to learn a whole lot more about the terrain you are showing to tourists. As a storyteller this gives me another reason to be perusing the internet for odds and ends about these eclectic barrios.