Flatland Reflections on a Chilean Quake

 Curico on March 3rd

In Iowa the ground will grow about anything. It’s the solid foundation of all life, a constant in a complex equation. So naturally when my apartment building here in Santiago began to shake back and forth last Saturday (Feb 28) screaming of steel and concrete grinding together the world that I had once knew -that concept of the earth being solid and firm- it all ended in the doorframe of my apartment.

It took me over five years to finally get a taste of a Chilean earthquake. I expected sooner or later it would hit me considering the seismic activity all along the country. Chile’s geography, it’s rugged, mountainous landscape, defines it as a country. It has a bit of everything. The 5000 mile long slice of land wedged between towering summits over 24000 feet and a cold, rugged pacific beach is made of glaciers, deserts, forests, rivers, lakes and volcanoes. All along the expansive Placa de Nazca fault line.

At 8.8 on the Richter scale the quake registered as the one of the strongest since they started measuring. There is something about that earth moving that ruptures your notions of what is protection and what is just another layer between you and the harsh natural world. That ceiling, that roof, the wall of your house can all be ripped apart like paper. The single strongest sensation that I got while huddling in the doorframe of my bedroom. (Not under my blankets thanks to my wife who knew how to react.), was how small and feeble our sense of order really is. The chaos outside afterwards reinforced that feeling. No lights. A dark, damaged city of nearly 6 million people. The intersections were filled with cars playing chicken with each other to get to their destination. You could even see some of the constellations above.

The quake struck at around 3:30am, just off the coast of the Maule region, some 200 km from Santiago. The litoral central is the center of Chile’s Agricultural district, dotted with small communities and a few cities, such as Concepción, where some of the worst destruction was focused. The coast got the worst, with a tsunami follwed in the hours after the quake and taking houses, cars and lives out to sea.

In all the quake lasted 3 minutes. Actually a long time to be shaken violently. But it’s the aftermath that really is startling. The fact that entire cities have been altered forever is hard to grasp. The entire supply of the most basic goods is thrown into question. When doubts of the source of upcoming meals arise, people react by getting as much as they can while they can. For some this means filling shopping carts in the supermarket and waiting the long lines. But People start stealing. Some because they have to, others because they are just thieves. Images on the Chilean TV stations of people looting washing machines. Gymnasiums where the liftin machines and weights have all been stolen. The worst of humanity comes to the surface.

But so does the best. In a mere four days 40-year TV and fundraising veteran Don Francisco organized a massive telethon that raised around USD 60 million. There have also been countless smaller initiatives. On Saturday (March 6) the city was full of all sorts of different fundraising and donating drives. From nurses taking your blood pressure to massages in the Plaza de Armas, lots of music, haircuts for donations and old fashioned peer pressure at the supermarket line urging shoppers to donate some non perishable goods.

Even the mobs that looted Concepción seemed to come together that weekend, leaving thousands of dollars of looted goods in common plazas and along the street.

In Santiago things are more or less normal. There are several neighborhoods that received damage from the quake, especially in the northwest of the city. But for the most part basic services were restored within a few days. People have been out to have drinks, eat food and reflect on all the madness. But the central southern region of the country is a much different reality.

All the destruction is hard to believe. Massive boats moved inland. Entire neighborhoods wiped off the map by tsunamis. Brand new apartment buildings lying on their side like cast away legos. If the photos are intense, the reality must be overwhelming. One friend of mine returned recently from reporting on the tragedy in Concepción and told me he doesn’t know how he can return to his “normal” life of office work here in Santiago. Witnessing the collective loss isn’t easy for an observer, so it must be hell for those affected directly.

When the quake hit I was sleeping and without even knowing what was going on I was between the doorway, almost sure that my apartment would come down. The sheer force and violence of the earth’s movements are enough to unsettle anyone. I look and think back about what was going on in the days leading up to the earthquake, it all seems a bit trivial now. The continuing aftershocks only keep the anxiety going. Last week the ground shook my world, leaving something that is a little less certain, a little less secure, but just as intense and as beautiful as before.

Solstice and those dreaded standardized tests

So today is December 21st, the longest (or shortest depending on which hemisphere you are in) day of the year. I've always wanted to be in one of those pyramids in Egypt where the light shines perfectly through that one hole and then through the use of ancient mirrors and other wonders lightens up the inside and you can see ghosts. I think that's how it works. But I'm spending this one in Chile, where the December Solistice means its summertime and despite the cold spring, it is defintely feeling hot like summer should.

December 21 this year also means a day of reakoning for those Chileans who took the standardised test to get into the university. The PSU. It's one of those dreaded tests that dictates you future and the future of your children and their offspring. Do poorly and you'll be flipping burgers, do well and you'll be walking streets paved with gold and own a bit of them too. Well maybe its not that harsh but it feels something about so. We of course have our share of college entry exams in the US. I believe I took the SAT but didn't really care since I was going into the army right after high school. When I did finally go back to school I went first to a community college where you just have to have write a check that doesn't bounce (ok maybe you had to send transcripts and show your HS diploma) and then transferred to the university.

In Chile the whole university route is quite strict in the sense that what you choose at 18 will have a long standing mark on your professional life. Plus the degrees run about 6 years here. I'm very grateful that I was able to take the approach my father suggested: just get it done with, worry about what I will do for work later on. As a result I chose a major that I thought I would enjoy: studio art. It was a lot of fun and somehow I've managed to find work and even break into other areas without the degree that might have been required if I were Chilean.

But for your average Santagiuno even thinking that route is hard. Its not just the pressure from the family, from friends, from that always watching mass of society, it comes from within. How will you find work with an art degree from a good university, much less from a tier two school? Better to go with that Ingeniero Comercial route.

So the whole process starts with those dreaded PSU scores that were delivered today at noon. I hope things went well for everyone who took one all though it never works like that. But boy am I glad that Kirkwood Community College didn't ask me to take anything like that to get in. Who knows where I might be had it worked out like that.

All that social media stuff

I had a friend here in Chile who recently left for the states to work at a power company as a "social media expert." I don't know what he does with his days or how a power company can better their business with social media like facebook, twitter or a blog. I suppose its about tracking their image and being aware of what people are saying, and maybe, just maybe having some sort of influence over it all.

I've long been interested in all that good stuff that allows you to post about your life through different media. But I'm hardly in control or manage to post on any sort of social media platform with any sort of frequency. The last post I wrote was months ago and gives you an idea of how long my absences have become.

When this blog started back in 2004 it was easier. I had just arrived in Chile and everything seemed so new and interesting. Just going to teach English classes was food for thought. But as time passes I've become more accustomed to my surroundings and need to reach deeper in order to keep my interest in the blog, let alone that of you...a devoted and returning reader.

But then came along facebook, then twitter, and those other strange sounding inventions that are supposed to make our lives better or at least more public. I guess you could call it a good thing even if privacy is obsolete. I have a twitter account and have tweeted once I think, but still people continue to follow. Not in any great quantity but here and there. Facebook has proved to be extremely useful, especially when it comes to keeping touch with my family and friends, who are scattered around the world in places as disperse as Iowa, Michigan, Germany and even the Philippines.

However the downside of Facebook is that the more I post or upload photos there, the less I seem to do it on the blog. In the end I would rather focus on the blog, it is mine, it has been around now for a while and in some ways it better reflects me. Facebook though guarantees a certain level of distribution of your thoughts.

So here is what I'm thinking: update with Twitter which goes then to the facebook page, write on the blog and link it from facebook, share the best photos on both the blog and on facebook.

So the dilemma continues. Any ideas?

The travel blog dilemma: what’s the next step?

Today I should really start with that line but it would just be too obvious. My blogging suffers as a second tier activity in my life. No matter what it is that I seem to be doing with my day, the blogging never will get to be first in line. Even when I’m working in something that appears similar the blog gets less priority. In fact the more similarity my day tasks are, for example writing short articles for BNamericas nearly killed this blog, the less willing I am to focus on updating when the day’s work comes to a close.

There is another dilemma at the heart of all this. Why keep the blog? When I first started this blog back in November 2004 it was an unapologetic travel blog. Look at those stray dogs! The fresh fruit is cheap! The Plaza de Armas has a cathedral, etc, etc.

But as time goes by the day to day life in Chile appears less noteworthy. It’s a natural process of growing more comfortable with my surroundings. It’s a good thing, but it means that some of the things, or many I should say, that were a source of inspiration upon my arrival today are just another part of the backdrop.

So what’s next? I don’t know the answer to that one. I follow some other expat themed blogs here. There are several I like, others I don’t care much for. It’s too easy to fall into the trap of keeping a blog that serves as a sounding board for complaints and gripes. For me it has to have something more than just comments on the slow service, something else that appeals to the positive side of life, although the negative will always be there as well.

So, if after all this delay, you, dear reader, are still coming back here, I hope to promise you some things like:

Links to articles I’m writing on Revolver. These articles have a life/cultural/arts focus. Much different than my work at Yankee Group writing market research reports or my breaking news stories at BNamericas. They are definitely a more engaging article to write, although I still do like to talk about mobile handsets.

Photos, photos. I love to take photos. There are many that haven’t really seen the light of day and this is a good place to share them.

What else? I think that’s what is a bit unclear. Exactly what direction to take this blog in its post-travel era….

The Big Day

Today is the day. This is a huge election and such a crazy and unstable time. I think Obama is who we need to start the healing process of the last eight years, it won't be easy. It sounds like an awful job to have in fact, but I think he will move us in the right direction.

Back in Chile-Back on the Blog

So its time for one of those I haven’t updated the blog for a long time type entries. It just seemed to get pushed further down on my list of priorities. I’ve been busy, I’ve been traveling, yadayadayada

I made it to Iowa to see the family. It was flooded, very flooded. But the weather was wonderful. It was nice to wear shorts and a short sleeve shirt. I also got to see the fourth of July for the first time in a long time…I think its been about four years now. Last time I was completely sick of all the flag stuff, all the patriotism, it just made me sick. This time around after not living in the US for three and a half years there was something nice about it, go figure. I even got to light off some bottle rockets with my brother.

So we’ll say that I’m back on the blog, there will be entries again, and again. Or at least I hope so.

Santiago in February

I always have associated February as a time of cold, thanks to the homeland of Iowa. It was always the coldest month, the month when winter becomes a bit too much to deal with and thoughts turn to the upcoming springtime, even if it is still several months off.

In Santiago though, with the seasons upside down, it is the peak of summer. Hot scorching days (though it’s a dry heat) mark the second month of the year. Its also prime time for vacations and traveling. As such the city feels almost deserted at times. I went outside this morning to find a newspaper and every single kiosk within three blocks of my apartment (about four of them) were closed.

When I first arrived in Chile February was the off season, since I was teaching English. It was part of the three month period that lasts from late December into mid March where there is no work. So I traveled. I rambled through the north of Chile, then onward to Peru and Bolivia one year. The next year Carolina and I went to Torres Del Paine for a 12 day trek. Two years straight of great travel and new experiences.

Not the last two years though, full time work has meant that I spend most of the month in the city, save a quick jaunt for the weekend to the beach or the mountains. This year was much better than last. I enjoy my work more, I got to travel back to Iowa and to Boston for work, and we escaped to Pucon between Christmas and New Years and had a great time. I even got to see an erupting volcano on the bus ride back.

But about this time of year I start to feel a bit anxious. I want to sit at the beach. All the “llegó Verano” (Summer’s arrived) commercials on TV seem to make it worse. The city seems a bit more boring and harder to deal with. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not trying to complain here. When I traveled I would return broke and stay that way until about May. Plus if you end up traveling these months you pay a whole lot more for everything, especially bus tickets and lodging.

But still, there is a part of me who just wants to be on a bus without worrying about when I will get back and how long it will take me to get caught up or deal with that back to work blues that always hits after a vacation.

Can we give this another shot?

Its been a very long time since I wrote in this blog. I was actually thinking of laying it to rest. I still think maybe I should. The whole thing started when I came to Chile in October 2004. I think maybe I started it in November. It was a travel blog at that point. It was my contact with the world I used to know as home, it was a log of the places I went. Entries about basic food items like Empanadas and completos, places like the plaza de armas. The things you think to write about only when they are so new.

How things have changed. I can't say I'm a traveler anymore, I've put some roots down. I've lived in the same apartment now for over two years. I don't have three month periods to roam around the continent. I work at least eight hours a day. I'm getting married. I have to ask for vacation.

But I don't want to really just pitch this one aside. I need to some how reinvent it. I'm sure no one that might've checked it before still does. I haven't been a good updater. Just look at the archives, single digits for the entries in 2007.

So, I could write one of those "things are going to change" entries, but I don't want to waste your time today. Check back tomorrow, if there is something here than maybe there is a chance I could bring it back.

We'll just have to wait and see.....